Discovering the Culinary Secrets of a Charming Parisian Neighborhood
As I stepped out of our hotel in the historic district of Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris, the scent of freshly baked croissants and the sound of lively chatter from the nearby cafes instantly enveloped me. I couldn’t help but feel a palpable sense of excitement – I was about to embark on a culinary adventure through one of the city’s most beloved neighborhoods.
My journey began when our documentary crew arrived in Paris to profile the renowned architect duo, Marc and Nada Breitman. Little did I know that this assignment would also uncover a treasure trove of gastronomic delights that would captivate my senses and leave a lasting impression.
The Delectable Delights of a Pâtisserie Rendezvous
Shortly after our initial meeting with the Breitmans, they graciously offered to take us to their favorite local pâtisserie. As we stepped into the charming bakery, my eyes were immediately drawn to the impeccable display of croissants, macarons, and tarts. The vibrant colors and intricate craftsmanship of these pastries were a testament to the skill and artistry of the French pâtissiers.
“How can I possibly choose?” I wondered, as my mouth watered in anticipation. But Marc knew exactly what to order, and soon we were indulging in a veritable feast of flaky, buttery croissants and delicate, melt-in-your-mouth macarons. The flavors were so rich and complex that I found myself savoring every bite, reluctant for the experience to end.
As I savored the last crumbs, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of envy for my wife back home, who would undoubtedly be tormented by the endless stream of mouth-watering food photos I’d be sending her throughout the trip.
The Ritual of the French Coffee Break
Throughout our time in Paris, we were continually offered coffee, and I quickly discovered that the French approach to this ritual was vastly different from what I was used to back home. Instead of the large, watered-down cups of brown liquid I was accustomed to, the French coffee was a concentrated, intensely flavorful elixir, served in petite cups with a side of a single sugar cube.
“Three sips and you’re done,” Marc had told me, and he was right. The depth of flavor in those few sips was so captivating that I found myself slowing down, savoring each moment, and truly appreciating the art of the French coffee break.
The idea of grabbing a coffee to-go seemed entirely foreign to the locals. Here, people would sit and savor their coffee, often accompanied by lively conversation and the sights and sounds of the bustling streets outside. It was as if they were savoring life itself, one delightful sip at a time.
A Gastronomic Celebration of Construction Milestones
As if the pâtisserie and coffee experiences weren’t enough, our time in Paris took an even more unexpected turn when Marc and Nada informed us that the next day, workers at one of their construction sites would be celebrating the completion of the building’s exterior walls with a traditional ritual – a lavish meal of lamb cooked in a vat of boiling tar, known as “gigot bitume”.
I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw the smoking vat, which looked and smelled just like the acrid roofing tar kettles I was familiar with. But as the chef explained, the lamb was sealed in aluminum foil and special construction paper, never actually touching the tar, ensuring that the meat had no trace of the tarry flavor.
What unfolded before us was a true feast fit for a king – impeccably prepared appetizers, side dishes, and of course, free-flowing wine and champagne. Despite the unorthodox cooking method and the chilly January air, the lamb was absolutely delicious, and I found myself immersed in the camaraderie and celebration of this unique French tradition.
Exploring the Architectural Wonders of Paris
While our primary focus was on profiling the Breitmans’ traditional architectural style, our journey also took us to some of the city’s most iconic modernist structures, including the UNESCO World Headquarters, a masterpiece designed by a who’s-who of renowned architects.
As I followed the enthusiastic assistant director-general for culture, Francesco Bandarin, on a whirlwind tour of the building, I couldn’t help but notice the juxtaposition of the sleek, minimalist design and the practical needs of the occupants. In one particularly amusing moment, I spotted a photocopier sitting awkwardly in the hallway, a testament to the challenges of shoehorning everyday functionality into such a meticulously crafted space.
Yet, despite these minor quirks, the UNESCO Headquarters was a true marvel of modernist architecture, seamlessly blending form and function in a way that left me in awe. It was a stark contrast to the charming, historic buildings that had captivated me in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, but no less impressive in its own right.
Discovering the Culinary Delights of Amsterdam
As our journey continued, we found ourselves in the vibrant city of Amsterdam, where the Breitmans had designed a mosque for the local Turkish immigrant community. While the architectural aspects of this project were certainly intriguing, it was the city’s renowned culinary scene that captured my attention.
On a rare morning off, I set out to explore the residential neighborhoods, marveling at the long rows of brick apartment buildings with their subtle modern details and beautifully crafted wood doors. It was during this stroll that I discovered my newfound appreciation for the Amsterdam School of architecture, a style that had clearly influenced the city’s urban fabric.
But the true gastronomic highlight of our time in Amsterdam came when my colleague, Dan Andries, and I visited an Indonesian rice table restaurant called Sama Sebo. As the waiter brought out an endless array of small dishes filled with a dazzling array of flavors, from vegetables to meats and fish, I couldn’t help but feel like a kid in a candy store. The experience was a delightful reminder that the culinary delights of Amsterdam extended far beyond the typical Dutch fare.
Savoring the Flavors of Saint Marc and Beyond
As my journey through the culinary wonders of Paris and Amsterdam came to a close, I couldn’t help but reflect on the incredible experiences I’d had. From the flaky, buttery croissants and rich, velvety coffee in Saint-Germain-des-Prés to the unexpected delights of the gigot bitume celebration and the vibrant Indonesian flavors of Amsterdam, I had been treated to a culinary odyssey that had left an indelible mark on my senses.
But beyond the food, what truly captivated me was the way the French and Dutch cultures celebrated the art of living and savoring every moment. Whether it was the leisurely coffee breaks or the elaborate construction site feasts, there was a reverence for the simple pleasures in life that I found truly inspiring.
As I boarded the plane for my journey home, I couldn’t help but feel a renewed sense of appreciation for the power of food to bring people together, to create shared experiences, and to inspire us to slow down and savor the journey. And who knows, perhaps my next culinary adventure will lead me right back to the charming streets of Saint Marc, where the flavors of France continue to beckon.
Discover the flavors of Saint Marc for yourself and embark on your own gastronomic odyssey.
