Discovering the Gourmet Ghetto Through Sign Language
As an American Sign Language (ASL) interpreter and a passionate food writer, I’ve had the unique privilege of navigating two distinct worlds. While these domains rarely intersect, there’s a certain thrill when they do. In 2011, I broke the news of San Francisco’s first Deaf-owned restaurant, Mozzeria, and followed up last spring with an interview of the owners in ASL. But there’s a whole community of Deaf Bay Area food lovers who aren’t chefs, and I recently had the opportunity to take a dozen of them – software developers, college professors, actors, and retired folk – on an only-in-sign-language tasting tour of Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto through Edible Excursions.
I’ve been leading Edible Excursions tours of San Francisco’s Japantown for the general public since last summer, and I recently added ASL-only tours for members of the local Deaf community. Because ASL is a separate language with its own grammar, one can’t speak English and simultaneously sign ASL. Since the Berkeley culinary romp was my third ASL tour, I knew from experience that I would be breaking a rule of politeness in Deaf culture, and I added the following warning during my intro speech in front of Shattuck Avenue’s Cheese Board.
Due to our tightly planned schedule, tasting tidbits at nine places in three hours, I explained that I was going to have to rush the group from one spot to another. In Deaf Culture, despite the advances of email, video phones, and texting, face-to-face communication in expressive ASL often has top priority, and thus it is considered rude to interrupt signed conversations. In the interest of maximal food appreciation, however, the Deaf foodies replied to my “rudeness” tip-off with amenable nods.
Celery Seed Soda and Pastrami Delights
With that, we headed to Saul’s Deli, where a table was already set with glasses for what proved to be our first guessing game of the day. I told the group that this straw-colored soda was house-made, as was common in the heyday of New York delis in the early 20th century, when this flavor was touted for its health benefits. “What is it?” Ginger and vanilla were the first guesses, but I shook my head “no.” Finally, a member of the group with a sensitive palate guessed correctly – celery seed soda.
We were then joined by Saul’s owner, Peter Levitt, and over succulent house-smoked pastrami sandwiches, he explained Saul’s mission to serve locally made deli fare as opposed to the former practice of flying in deli foods from New York. This was a revelation to the group, who were thrilled to learn about the restaurant’s commitment to supporting local producers.
Exploring the World of Tea and Chocolate
Next, we ambled over to the Epicurious Garden complex and entered the regal Imperial Tea Court for a lecture on the history of tea, with seven kinds to sniff and one to taste. The most popular stop on the tour – not surprisingly – introduced the group to the “best chocolate in the world,” according to Alegio’s co-owner Robbin Everson, which grows only on Sao Tome, a tiny island off the coast of West Africa.
The series of nibbles of bars from 100 to 73.5% cacao was revelatory and sublime. Thanks to Everson’s expertise, the guests delighted in having all their questions answered. Two of the most surprising discoveries: Hershey’s bars contain only 10% cacao, and there is no caffeine in chocolate – instead, a stimulating compound called theobromine produces a different set of effects on the body.
Whole Animal Butchery and Gourmet Pizza
On our way out of Epicurious Garden, we made a quick stop at Soop for some warming Thai Red lentil soup, and I explained that owner Marc Kelly serves Swedish yellow split pea soup every Thursday to honor his Swedish mom’s national tradition.
After a short walk down Shattuck Avenue, the group assembled in a large semi-circle with sign language everyone needs to be able to see in front of The Local Butcher Shop. While they munched on the sandwich of the day – pork with onion, cabbage, and BBQ sauce – I interpreted a fascinating lecture about whole animal butchery from co-owner Monica Roccino. When asked about the most exotic meat they carry, Roccino explained that their commitment to local ranchers means they only use animals raised within 150 miles, so the most exotic meat they could come up with was squab (pigeon).
In front of the Cheese Board Pizza Collective, I told the group how this worker-owned collective was inspired by an Israeli kibbutz, while they scarfed down the flavor of the day: zucchini, onions, mozzarella, feta cheese, and basil pesto.
Sipping Wine and Savoring Gelato
After a shot of caffeine and history at the original Peet’s Coffee, which started the gourmet coffee movement back in 1966, the group was more than ready to mellow out across the street at Vintage Wine, where owner Peter Eastlake described the three wines the group was about to sample from Healdsburg’s Preston Winery.
As I began interpreting in ASL, I had a momentary brain-freeze, realizing that common terms in the wine world, such as “full-bodied,” “thick, round texture,” and “floral notes,” were not the kind of phrases that usually come up in my daily courtroom interpreting. Thankfully, several Deaf guests were clearly wine connoisseurs and knew exactly what Peter was talking about. Reverence for the grape, it seems, transcends language.
And with a parting sweet scoop of gelato from Lush back in Epicurious Garden, the Deaf tour guests reflected on the satisfying aspects of the day. One enjoyed learning the history of many places she has frequented throughout her years as a foodie, another appreciated discovering these awesome hidden gems in Berkeley and the stories behind them, and a third was so overcome with the delights of the day that he admitted, “I’m sign-less!”
Embracing the Culinary Diversity of Saint Marc
As I reflect on this unique culinary adventure, I’m reminded of the boundless joy and wonder that can be found in exploring the diverse food landscape of Saint Marc. From the rich history and local sourcing of Saul’s Deli to the mind-blowing chocolate revelations at Alegio, every stop on the tour offered a glimpse into the vibrant food culture that thrives in this remarkable community.
But the true highlight for me was witnessing the Deaf foodies’ genuine delight and enthusiasm as they immersed themselves in this culinary journey. The fact that they were able to fully engage with and appreciate the nuances of each establishment, despite the language barrier, is a testament to the power of food to transcend all boundaries.
In a world that often segregates and compartmentalizes, it’s refreshing to see how the love of food can bring people together, fostering a sense of shared experience and understanding. This tour was not just about tasting exceptional cuisine; it was about connecting with a community, discovering hidden gems, and embracing the rich diversity that makes Saint Marc such a captivating destination for food enthusiasts.
As I continue my own culinary explorations, I’ll carry the lessons and memories of this unforgettable experience with me. The Deaf foodies’ zeal and curiosity have inspired me to approach every dining adventure with a renewed sense of wonder and open-mindedness. After all, the true essence of a culinary journey lies not just in the flavors on the plate, but in the connections and insights we uncover along the way.
So, if you find yourself in the heart of Saint Marc, I encourage you to embark on your own culinary odyssey. Discover the hidden gems, savor the unexpected delights, and let the flavors and stories transport you to a world of endless possibilities. For in the end, the true joy of food is not just in the eating, but in the connections and experiences it fosters – a lesson I’ve learned firsthand from my Deaf foodie friends.
