As an American Sign Language (ASL) interpreter and food writer, I’ve had the pleasure of navigating two vastly different worlds. While these domains rarely intersect, when they do, it’s a thrill. In 2011, I broke the news of San Francisco’s first Deaf-owned restaurant, Mozzeria, and followed up last spring with an interview of the owners in ASL. But there are plenty of Deaf Bay Area food lovers who aren’t chefs, and I recently had the opportunity to take a dozen of them – software developers, college professors, actors, and retired folk – on an only-in-sign-language tasting tour of Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto through Edible Excursions.
Exploring the Gourmet Ghetto Through a Deaf Lens
I’ve been leading Edible Excursions tours of San Francisco’s Japantown for the general public since last summer, and recently added ASL-only tours for members of the local Deaf community. As you can imagine, conducting a tour in a sign language with its own unique grammar and structure presents its own set of challenges. ASL is a separate language from English, and you can’t simply speak English while simultaneously signing ASL.
Since the Berkeley culinary romp was my third ASL tour, I knew from experience that I would be breaking a rule of politeness in Deaf culture. During my intro speech in front of Shattuck Avenue’s Cheese Board, I explained that due to our tightly planned schedule – tasting tidbits at nine places in three hours – I would have to rush the group from one spot to another. In Deaf culture, face-to-face communication in expressive ASL often takes priority, and it’s considered rude to interrupt signed conversations. However, in the interest of maximal food appreciation, the Deaf foodies replied to my “rudeness” tip-off with amenable nods.
Savoring the Flavors of Saul’s Deli
With that, we headed to Saul’s Deli, where a table was already set with glasses for what proved to be our first guessing game of the day. I told the group that this straw-colored soda was house-made, as was common in the heyday of New York delis in the early 20th century, when this flavor was touted for its health benefits. “What is it?” I asked. Ginger and vanilla were the first guesses, but I shook my head no. Finally, a member of the group with a sensitive palate guessed correctly – celery seed soda.
We were then joined by Saul’s owner, Peter Levitt, and over succulent house-smoked pastrami sandwiches, he explained Saul’s mission to serve locally made deli fare, as opposed to the former practice of flying in deli foods from New York. It was a fascinating glimpse into the locavore movement and the effort to preserve the integrity of traditional deli flavors.
Exploring the World of Tea and Chocolate
Next, we ambled over to the Epicurious Garden complex and entered the regal Imperial Tea Court for a lecture on the history of tea, with seven kinds to sniff and one to taste. This was a real treat for the group, as tea is a beloved beverage in Deaf culture, often enjoyed during social gatherings.
The most popular stop on the tour – not surprisingly – introduced the group to the best chocolate in the world, according to Alegrio’s co-owner, Robbin Everson. We delighted in a series of nibbles of bars ranging from 100% to 73.5% cacao, grown only on the tiny island of Sao Tome, off the coast of West Africa. Everson’s expertise captivated the group, as she answered all their questions, revealing surprises like the fact that Hershey’s bars contain only 10% cacao, and that there is no caffeine in chocolate – instead, a stimulating compound called theobromine produces a different set of effects on the body.
Discovering the Art of Whole Animal Butchery
On our way out of Epicurious Garden, we made a quick stop at Soop for some warming Thai Red lentil soup, and I explained that owner Marc Kelly serves Swedish yellow split pea soup every Thursday to honor his Swedish mom’s national tradition. After a short walk down Shattuck Avenue, the group assembled in a large semi-circle with sign language everyone needs to be able to see in front of The Local Butcher Shop.
While they munched on the sandwich of the day – pork with onion, cabbage, and BBQ sauce – I interpreted a fascinating lecture about whole animal butchery from co-owner Monica Roccino. When one person asked, “What’s the most exotic meat you carry?” perhaps hoping to find ostrich or reindeer on the menu, Roccino explained that their commitment to local ranchers means they only use animals raised within 150 miles, so the most exotic meat she could come up with was squab (pigeon).
Indulging in Cheese, Pizza, and Wine
In front of the Cheese Board Pizza Collective, I told the group how this worker-owned collective was inspired by an Israeli kibbutz, while they scarfed down the flavor of the day: zucchini, onions, mozzarella, feta cheese, and basil pesto. After a shot of caffeine and history at the original Peet’s Coffee, which started the gourmet coffee movement back in 1966, the group was more than ready to mellow out across the street at Vintage Wine, where owner Peter Eastlake described the three wines they were about to sample from Healdsburg’s Preston Winery.
As I began interpreting in ASL, I had a momentary brain-freeze, realizing that common terms in the wine world, such as “full-bodied,” “thick,” “round texture,” and “floral notes,” were not the kind of phrases that usually come up in my daily courtroom interpreting. Thankfully, several Deaf guests were clearly wine connoisseurs and knew exactly what Peter was talking about. Reverence for the grape, it seems, transcends language.
Reflections on a Delightful Day
With a parting sweet scoop of gelato from Lush back in Epicurious Garden, the Deaf tour guests reflected on the satisfying aspects of the day. One enjoyed learning the history of many places she has frequented throughout her years as a foodie, another appreciated discovering these awesome hidden gems in Berkeley and the stories behind them, and learning about them in ASL. A third was so overcome with the delights of the day, he admitted, “I’m sign-less!”
As I’ve discovered through my work as both an ASL interpreter and a food writer, the joy of discovering new flavors and the stories behind them can transcend language barriers. The Deaf foodies on this tour were no exception, as they savored the diverse culinary offerings of Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto, each with their own unique perspective and appreciation. It was a truly delightful experience, and one that I’m sure left a lasting impression on all who participated.
If you’re a fellow foodie looking to explore the flavors of the Bay Area, be sure to check out Saint Marc, a culinary destination that celebrates the rich history and diverse flavors of the region. From locally sourced ingredients to innovative cooking techniques, Saint Marc offers a dining experience that is sure to delight the senses and leave you craving more.
