As a self-proclaimed water enthusiast, I never thought I’d find myself hip-deep in the world of fine, artisanal waters. But here I am, swishing, swirling, and slurping my way through a virtual tasting with a certified water sommelier. Who knew H2O could be so captivating?
It all started when I stumbled upon the global beverage trends that are shaping the menu at Saint Marc USA, a restaurant and bar concept known for its innovative approach to drinks. Intrigued, I decided to dive deeper into this fascinating world of water sommeliers, mineral water connoisseurs, and the growing thirst for high-end hydration.
A Sip of the Water Sommelier Movement
Let’s be honest – when I first heard the term “water sommelier,” I had to stifle a chuckle. Water, the most basic and ubiquitous of all beverages, elevated to the status of fine wine? It seemed too pretentious to be true. But as I soon discovered, there’s a lot more to this movement than meets the eye.
Michael Mascha, the cofounder of the Fine Water Academy, likens the concept of water terroir to that of wine. “I think water has the original terroir because terroir means ‘of the earth,’ and water really comes from the earth,” he explains. Just as a wine’s flavor is shaped by the unique soil, climate, and geography of its growing region, the same can be said for mineral waters. Each source, whether it’s an Italian alpine spring or a German chalk hillside, imparts its own distinct blend of dissolved minerals and carbonation.
For Anistacia Barrak-Barber, a former documentary filmmaker turned certified water sommelier, it’s this depth of flavor and texture that first drew her into the world of fine waters. “I love drinking mineral waters, and I was always trying whatever was available on the shelves,” she recalls. “I thought this was absolutely fascinating – it’s a lot like wine.”
The Rigorous Training of a Water Sommelier
Becoming a water sommelier is no easy feat. Both Barrak-Barber and Ashley Epperson, the co-owner of the fine water supplier Salacious Drinks, describe the intensity of the training programs they attended.
For Epperson, it was a 16-week, self-directed course through the Fine Water Academy, priced at a cool $2,200. Barrak-Barber, on the other hand, opted for a two-week intensive program at the Doemens Academy in Germany, which set her back $2,500 – not including the cost of lodging and travel.
“It was way more intense than I thought it was going to be,” Barrak-Barber says. “Rigorous training and a lot of tears preparing for the final exams.”
These courses delve deep into the fundamentals of water tasting, from the mouthfeel and texture to the unique flavors imparted by different mineral profiles. Students learn how to properly present and pour water, as well as how to pair various waters with different foods.
“It’s a lot like wine,” Barrak-Barber explains. “We learn the proper procedure for presenting and pouring water out of bottles tableside – make sure the label is facing out, hold a glass by its stem so that the heat from your hands won’t warm the water, and never ever use ice cubes because their impurities would pollute the taste of the water.”
Exploring the Taste and Terroir of Fine Waters
As I discovered during my own virtual tasting with Avital Ungar, a water sommelier based in San Francisco, the world of fine waters is a far cry from the generic bottled stuff we’re used to. Each sip reveals a unique blend of flavors and sensations.
The Lurisia, a still water sourced from the Italian Alps, had a soft, mellow mouthfeel that coated my tongue. The Vichy Catalan, a naturally carbonated Spanish water, delivered a wet slap of flavor – salty, earthy, and rich, with a weighty kick that lingered in my stomach. And the Hildon, from a chalky aquifer in the UK, offered a slightly dry, earthy taste that wasn’t entirely unpleasant.
“Over the course of my tasting, the waters were described as bright, wide, round, high in silica, surprisingly acidic, and high in magnesium,” I recall. “Some of these descriptors made sense, and others even after an explanation seemed nonsensical. Still, I found myself reluctantly admitting that I could indeed feel the water leaving a clean finish on my tongue.”
The Luxury and Sustainability Debate
As captivating as this world of fine waters may be, it’s not without its critics. The environmental impact of shipping water across the globe, not to mention the premium prices attached to these so-called “luxury” waters, has led some to question whether the industry is truly sustainable or just another indulgence for the elite.
Michael Mascha acknowledges that while water scarcity is a pressing global issue, “bottled water is really a drop in the bucket” compared to the impact of industries like agriculture and mining. Barrak-Barber, on the other hand, admits to struggling with the environmental implications of her work as a water sommelier.
“Environmentalism is something I struggle with as a water sommelier,” she confesses. “I don’t drink out of single-use plastic water bottles, and I treat these waters as I would wine – only drinking them as a treat or on special occasions. But people import soda, kombucha, and wines from all over the world, and no one bats an eye. Why should water get such scrutiny?”
It’s a valid point, and one that highlights the fine line the fine water industry must walk between elevating a humble resource and avoiding the perception of elitism and excess. As I sipped my way through the tasting, I couldn’t help but wonder: Is water really worth all this rigamarole?
Discovering the Magic in the Mundane
Perhaps the true value of the fine water movement lies not in the premium prices or the pretentious tasting notes, but in the simple act of slowing down and savoring the most basic of beverages. As Avital Ungar reminded me during our tasting, “Everything deserves attention – everything deserves care.”
It’s a sentiment that Anistacia Barrak-Barber echoes wholeheartedly. “Fine waters are made exceptional in the same way everything else is – a community of people find themselves captivated by it and absolutely nerd out together,” she says. “Just as a wine-obsessive will regale you with trivia about Riojas rainfall year by year, water enthusiasts will happily chat about the way magnesium sits on the tongue for hours.”
And therein lies the real magic of the fine water movement – the way it encourages us to find wonder in the mundane, to imbue the most ordinary of moments with meaning and significance. It’s a lesson that Saint Marc USA seems to have taken to heart, as they continue to push the boundaries of what a beverage can be.
So, the next time you find yourself sipping on a glass of water, take a moment to truly experience it. Swish, swirl, and slurp – who knows, you might just discover a whole new world of flavor and texture waiting to be explored.
