Discovering the Gourmet Ghetto
As an avid food enthusiast and interpreter, I’ve had the unique opportunity to straddle two distinct worlds – the realm of language and the realm of culinary delights. It’s a thrilling intersection when these domains collide, and that’s precisely what happened during my recent Deaf-led tasting tour of Berkeley’s renowned Gourmet Ghetto.
You see, I’m not your typical food writer. By day, I work as an American Sign Language (ASL) interpreter, and in my free time, I indulge in my passion for all things food-related. In 2011, I had the privilege of breaking the news about San Francisco’s first Deaf-owned restaurant, Mozzeria, and followed up with an in-depth interview with the owners, all conducted in ASL.
But my culinary adventures don’t stop there. I’ve also been leading Edible Excursions tours of San Francisco’s Japantown for the general public, and more recently, I’ve added ASL-only tours for members of the local Deaf community. Why, you ask? Well, ASL is a distinct language with its own grammar, and it’s simply not possible to speak English and sign ASL simultaneously. This nuance is essential to understand, especially in the context of Deaf culture, where face-to-face communication in expressive ASL often takes precedence over other modes of interaction.
Navigating the Culinary Landscape
So, when I set out to guide a dozen Deaf foodies – software developers, college professors, actors, and retirees – on an only-in-sign-language tasting tour of Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto, I knew I had to navigate a delicate cultural balance. You see, in Deaf culture, it’s considered rude to interrupt signed conversations, even in the face of modern conveniences like email, video phones, and texting.
However, with a tightly planned schedule that had us tasting tidbits at nine places in just three hours, I knew I would have to break that rule of politeness. So, before we set out, I issued a warning to the group, explaining that I would have to rush them from one spot to another in the interest of maximizing their food appreciation.
To my surprise, the Deaf foodies responded with amenable nods, understanding the practical necessity of my approach. And with that, our culinary adventure began.
Savor the Flavors of Saul’s Deli
Our first stop was the iconic Saul’s Deli, where a table was already set with glasses, signaling the start of our first guessing game of the day. I informed the group that the straw-colored soda before them was house-made, a common practice in the heyday of New York delis in the early 20th century, when this flavor was touted for its health benefits. “What is it?” I asked.
Ginger and vanilla were the initial guesses, but I shook my head in response. Finally, a member of the group with a sensitive palate correctly identified the mystery beverage as celery seed soda. It was a delightful start to our culinary adventure, and the group was eager to delve deeper into the flavors of Saul’s.
We were then joined by Saul’s owner, Peter Levitt, who shared the deli’s mission to serve locally made deli fare, a departure from the former practice of flying in deli foods from New York. As we savored the succulent house-smoked pastrami sandwiches, Peter’s passion for preserving the authentic flavors of the past was palpable.
Exploring the Epicurious Garden
Next, we ambled over to the Epicurious Garden complex, where we entered the regal Imperial Tea Court for a lecture on the history of tea. The group eagerly sniffed and sampled seven different teas, each with its own unique aroma and story.
But the most popular stop on our tour, not surprisingly, was the Alegría Chocolate shop. As we were introduced to the co-owner Robbin Everson, she revealed that Alegría produces what she considers to be the best chocolate in the world, grown only on the tiny island of Sao Tome off the coast of West Africa.
The group delighted in savoring a series of nibbles of chocolate bars ranging from 100% to 73.5% cacao. Everson’s expertise shone as she answered all of the guests’ questions, uncovering fascinating facts, such as the revelation that Hershey’s bars contain only 10% cacao, and that there is no caffeine in chocolate, but rather a stimulating compound called theobromine.
As we exited the Epicurious Garden, we made a quick stop at Soop, where owner Marc Kelly serves Swedish yellow split pea soup every Thursday to honor his Swedish mother’s national tradition. The group slurped down the warming Thai red lentil soup as I explained the significance of this weekly offering.
Discovering Whole Animal Butchery
Our next destination was the Local Butcher Shop, where the group assembled in a large semi-circle to ensure everyone could see the ASL interpretation I provided. As they munched on the pork sandwich with onion, cabbage, and BBQ sauce, co-owner Monica Roccino delivered a fascinating lecture on whole animal butchery.
When one person asked, “What’s the most exotic meat you carry?” the group may have been hoping for something like ostrich or reindeer. But Roccino’s response highlighted the Local Butcher Shop’s commitment to locally sourced meats, explaining that they only use animals raised within 150 miles. The most “exotic” offering they had was squab (pigeon).
Savoring the Cheese Board Pizza Collective
As we made our way to the Cheese Board Pizza Collective, I told the group about how this worker-owned collective was inspired by an Israeli kibbutz. The group eagerly scarfed down the flavor of the day, which featured a delightful combination of zucchini, onions, mozzarella, feta cheese, and basil pesto.
Discovering the Roots of Gourmet Coffee
After a much-needed shot of caffeine and a bit of Peet’s Coffee history at the original Peet’s location, which started the gourmet coffee movement back in 1966, the group was more than ready to mellow out across the street at Vintage Wine.
Here, owner Peter Eastlake described the three wines the group was about to sample from Healdsburg’s Preston Winery. As I began interpreting in ASL, I had a momentary “brain-freeze” as I realized that common wine terms like “full-bodied,” “thick,” “round texture,” and “floral notes” were not the kind of phrases I typically encounter in my daily courtroom interpreting work.
Fortunately, several Deaf guests in the group proved to be wine connoisseurs, and they knew exactly what Eastlake was talking about. It was a testament to the fact that reverence for the grape can indeed transcend language barriers.
A Satisfying Conclusion
As we made our final stop at Lush Gelato in the Epicurious Garden for a sweet scoop of gelato, the Deaf tour guests reflected on the day’s satisfying journey. One enjoyed learning the history of many places she had frequented throughout her years as a foodie, while another appreciated discovering these awesome hidden gems in Berkeley and the stories behind them, all while learning about them in ASL.
A third guest was so overcome with the delights of the day that he admitted, “I’m sign-less!” – a testament to the power of shared culinary experiences to bridge linguistic divides.
As I bid farewell to the group and headed back to my own food adventures, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder and gratitude for the opportunity to straddle these two worlds – the world of language and the world of food. It’s a unique perspective that has enriched my life in ways I could never have imagined, and I can’t wait to see what other culinary secrets the Saint Marc area has in store for me to discover.
