Discovering the Hidden Depths of Water
As I stare at the five large glass bottles of mineral water sitting before me, I can’t help but feel a bit perplexed. Water – something so fundamental, so ubiquitous in our daily lives – has somehow been elevated to the realm of fine dining and luxury. Who would have thought that a simple glass of H2O could evoke such passion, expertise, and debate?
My introduction to the world of water sommeliers began with a virtual tasting led by Avital Ungar, a certified water sommelier based in San Francisco. As she guided me through sips of still, carbonated, and even ancient glacier-sourced waters, I found myself slipping into a strange sort of water-fueled reverie.
“Isn’t this Vichy Catalan just incredible?” Ungar exclaimed, as I swished the earthy, minerally liquid around my mouth. “It has such a unique, unctuous mouthfeel – you’d pair it perfectly with a rare steak.”
I nodded along, trying my best to mimic the water-tasting lingo I’d learned from my pre-tasting research. Terms like “bright,” “wide,” and “high in silica” began to roll off my tongue, even if I wasn’t entirely sure what they meant. But as I continued tasting, I found myself becoming increasingly captivated by the nuances of each water’s flavor profile and texture.
The Rise of the Water Sommelier
The growing fine water movement, driven by a dedicated community of water sommeliers, is a fascinating case study in how something as ubiquitous as water can be elevated to the status of a luxury item. These water enthusiasts, who undergo rigorous training programs to hone their tasting skills, are on a mission to help people appreciate the unique terroir and characteristics of different water sources.
“I think water has the original terroir because terroir means ‘of the earth,’ and water really comes from the earth,” explains Michael Mascha, the co-founder of the Fine Water Academy and a leading figure in the American fine water scene.
Just as wine enthusiasts can wax poetic about the subtle differences between vintages and growing regions, water sommeliers are equally passionate about the “birth story” of their favorite bottled waters. They’ll eagerly describe how a water’s unique mineral composition and carbonation level can impact its flavor and mouthfeel, and how certain waters pair best with particular foods.
For Anistacia Barrak-Barber, a former documentary filmmaker turned water sommelier, her fascination with water began as a personal hobby. “I love drinking mineral waters, and I was always trying whatever was available on the shelves,” she explains. “I thought this was absolutely fascinating – it’s a lot like wine.”
Barrak-Barber’s journey into the world of water tasting involved intensive training at the Doemens Academy in Germany, where she and her fellow students endured rigorous exams and hours of daily water tastings. “It was way more intense than I thought it was going to be,” she recalls, “with a lot of tears preparing for the final exams.”
The Environmental Implications of Fine Water
As I delved deeper into the world of fine water, I found myself grappling with some uncomfortable questions about the environmental impact of this growing industry. While the water sommeliers I spoke with acknowledged the concerns around issues like water scarcity and the carbon footprint of shipping water globally, they argued that bottled water is “a drop in the bucket” compared to other environmental challenges.
“This is much better addressed with agriculture runoffs and all those kinds of things,” Mascha argues. “Bottled water is really a drop in the bucket – a relative term, but while plastic water bottles have long been known as an environmental scourge, research shows that the glass bottles favored by most fine waters aren’t very eco-conscious either.”
Still, Barrak-Barber admits that she struggles with the environmental implications of her work as a water sommelier. “Environmentalism is something I struggle with as a water sommelier,” she says. “I don’t drink out of single-use plastic water bottles, and I treat these waters as I would wine – only drinking them as a treat or on special occasions.”
This internal conflict highlights the broader tension inherent in the fine water movement. While these enthusiasts are undoubtedly passionate about their craft and the unique qualities of different water sources, they must also grapple with the potential environmental impact of their niche industry.
Elevating the Ordinary to the Extraordinary
As I reflect on my immersion in the world of fine water, I can’t help but be struck by the way that a seemingly ordinary and ubiquitous resource like water can be transformed into something extraordinary. The water sommeliers I spoke with have a deep reverence for their craft, and their enthusiasm is truly infectious.
“Ask me whatever you want,” Barrak-Barber gushed during our interview. “I’m just happy to have somebody that wants to listen!” I could feel myself getting swept up in their passion, as I learned about the way different minerals and carbonation levels can impact a water’s taste and texture.
In many ways, the fine water movement is a testament to the power of community and shared enthusiasm. Just as a wine-obsessed individual can regale you with trivia about Riojas for hours, water enthusiasts are equally eager to share their knowledge and excitement about the nuances of their favorite bottled waters.
And perhaps that’s the real lesson here: even the most ordinary things in our lives can be imbued with meaning and significance when we approach them with care, attention, and a genuine sense of wonder. As Ungar said to me during our tasting, “Are you having as much fun as I am?”
In the end, my journey into the world of fine water was a gentle reminder that everything deserves attention – even the seemingly mundane elements of our daily lives. By slowing down, savoring, and truly appreciating the unique qualities of something as simple as a glass of water, we can find joy and fascination in the most unexpected places.
So, the next time you reach for a bottle of water, I encourage you to pause and consider its story. Where did it come from? What unique characteristics might it possess? By approaching even the most ordinary aspects of our lives with a sense of curiosity and reverence, we just might discover hidden depths that we never knew existed.
And who knows – you might even find yourself becoming a water sommelier in the making.
